Julie’s world tour continues, and in October, I decided to spend half a month in Split, Croatia — I really needed to slow down after a whirlwind three months traveling through Eastern Europe. Nomading is exhausting, ya’ll!
I hadn’t spent any time in Croatia before I decided to land in Split for awhile, and luckily, I picked a pretty good spot. I found Split to be a very nice vacation destination, with lovely weather (highs in the upper 70s) in mid-to-late October, plenty of good restaurants, and a variety of things to do… even as Split entered the off-season.
Generally, I found Croatia to be probably the most expensive of the Balkan countries when it comes to dining out… yes, even beating out Greece, in my humble but recently well-traveled opinion. (The only exception might be coffee.) In tourist Split, appetizers, entrees, and drinks are pretty close to what you might expect to pay in the U.S., depending on the city — nowhere near the steal I was getting elsewhere in eastern Europe. In most cases, you can expect to pay around $15/person for breakfast and lunch, and for dinner, between $30-45/person.
Must-eat: Where to eat in Split, Croatia
Spending half a month in one city means a LOT of meals, and an opportunity to really nail down and share some of my faves with you!
Coffee: D16 Coffee (photo 1)
A great place to park it and get on WiFi. Plus, they have an amazing almond croissant (get it before they run out!)
Brunch: Fig Split (not pictured)
Flavorful, unique breakfasts (I loved the spicy eggs)
Gelato: Gelateria Emiliana (photo 2)
MANY people told me this was the place for gelato. Of course, I visited several times
Vegan/vegetarian: Kat’s Kitchen Deli (photo 3)
Their breakfasts are a work of art — super colorful! The avocado and egg croissant was yum, but the vegan donut was a bit meh
Pizza/Paninis: Basta (photo 4)
Italian-style salads, paninis, and pizza… crusts are on the soft side, tell them if you like it crispier!
Burgers: Pub Plan B (photo 5)
Really nice burgers, at a decent price
Pub food and nightly watering hole: Fabrique Pub (photo 6)
Lots of delicious options, plus, it’s pretty lively at night (and sometimes there’s live music!)
Date night: Chops Grill – Steak & Seafood (photo 7) and Bokeria Kitchen & Wine (photo 8-9)
The beef wellington at Chops was sooo worth it, and I was quite impressed with the burrata salad and lamb at Bokeria… both are vibey settings for a date
Things to do in Split, Croatia (outings, excursions and tours)
IN TOWN: Did you know that you could get a Split card, which gives the bearer free or discounted entrance to Split sites and excursions — for absolutely free? If you’re staying in Split for two nights or longer in fall/winter, and five days or longer in the summer, share your reservation info with the Split tourism office and receive your free 3-day card to save on museums, car rentals, excursions, and restaurants.
TAKE A FREE WALKING TOUR: A walking tour is one of my favorite ways of getting acquainted with a new city. I always learn a ton! This is the free walking tour (highly recommended) I took in Split: sights, history, insights, and a bit of humor!
SHOP AT THE DAILY MARKET: Pick up fresh veggies, cheeses, nuts, meats and fish, olive oil and honey, and more at Split’s every-day large Green Market. Prices and selection are pretty good, and it’s also great for people watching!
SUNBATHE AT FIRULE OR BAČVICE BEACH: Come on in, the water is fiiiine! Head over to Firule or Bačvice Beach for sunbathing and beachside cocktails. Plus, its shallow waters are perfect for playing picigin (or eyeballing the athletic Croatian men play!).
VISIT THE ISLANDS: Croatia is known for its extensive network of islands (more than 1,000!). You can catch a ferry from Split to Hvar, Brac, Vis, and more. Or, take a day tour from one of the many vendors and visit the Blue Lagoon, Blue Cave, and other stops. Check out this Sounds Of Blue Lagoon Boat + Snorkeling Tour with a visit to the island of Šolta— I had a blast!
GO TO A SOCCER GAME: Football is the official religion of Croatia (AKA soccer), and Hadjuk Split is Dalmatia’s god! There were several games, both home and away, during my time in Split… and first, seeing the fan enthusiasm at bars cemented my desire to experience it in person. It was great fun, and pretty affordable!
GO WINE TASTING (TRY THE ZINFANDEL!): Croatia’s Dalmatia region is known for its production of Zinfandel. Visit one of the several wineries in Kaštela, about 20 minutes by car from Split. I visited Vina Perišin and really enjoyed it; wine and charcuterie for two cost 500 kunas (~$65usd).
STEP BACK IN TIME AND VISIT KLIS FORTRESS: 2,000-plus-year-old Klis Fortress, a Game of Thrones filming site, sits high atop a cliff and overlooks the port of Split.
CHECK OUT THE ROMAN RUINS OF SALONA: While you’re out visiting Klis, make a point to also stop at the amphitheater of Salona.
EXPERIENCE THE BREATHTAKING NATIONAL PARKS: Krka National Park is about 90 minutes from Split, while Plitvice is a bit farther. Rent a car, or take a tour to save yourself the hassle: visit Krka from Split (which includes a stop in Trogir) and visit Plitvice from Split.
If you’re big on adventure and have the time, check out this awesome multi-day activity tour of four Croatian national parks that includes hiking, sea kayaking, cliff-jumping, and optional bungee jumping across Plitvice, Kornati, Paklenica, and Krka National Parks.
Also, fun fact: Did you know Dalmatian dogs are named after this region of Croatia? Mind blown!
Alrighty, travelers, I hope I’ve gotten you started to enjoy your time in Split. Hvala (thank you) for reading, everyone! Plus, check out my video reel on Split.