This past December, I surprised a lot of you when I went on a 15-day expedition to Antarctica — THE HARSHEST, DRIEST, MOST UNEXPLORED, MOST REMOTE, and MOST EXPENSIVE travel destination on Earth!
I rather spontaneously added this amazing bucket list experience to the 7th continent of the world to wrap up my 2023. And what an amazing time I had spending Christmas “at the South Pole,” where diverse wildlife like penguins, seals, whales, and seabirds call home.
I SAW SO MUCH WILDLIFE!!
So here goes: I’m answering your frequently asked questions about my trip to Antarctica!
First off, tell us about your itinerary, Julie!
The trip I went on was a 15-day expedition called “Across the Antarctic Circle” via Aurora Expeditions, an operator on the higher-end side. We departed from Ushuaia, Argentina, and traveled south, eventually crossing the Antarctic Circle. Our vessel was the Greg Mortimer, built in 2019, and there were just under 100 guests on board. The cabins are modern and comfortable and the dining was superb (loved the complimentary wine and beer with dinner!). Aurora is also 100% climate neutral, and has attained a B Corp sustainability pledge.
What’s the difference between an Antarctic cruise and an expedition? Cruises usually focus on providing a comfortable on-ship travel experience, while expeditions prioritize exploration, adventure, and education — aiming to provide in-depth experiences and learning opportunities. Expeditions often involve smaller ships, expert guides, and a stronger emphasis on outdoor activities and scientific lectures. Sometimes, cruises don’t even land on Antarctica, or land on an extremely limited basis! (Isn’t that what you’re there for?!)
How bad is the Drake Passage in Antarctica, and did you get seasick?
The infamous Drake Passage, between South America’s Cape Horn and the Antarctic peninsula, is known as one of the roughest and most unpredictable ocean crossings in the world… where the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans meet and mix.
It typically takes two days to cross by ship. Our crossing on the way there was mild, and the crew told us it was only a 1.5 out of 10 in terms of roughness. I took one seasickness pill the first evening as a preventative, but was otherwise totally fine.
On the way back, however… I finally got to experience the “Drake Shake!”
The Drake Shake is hard to describe. While sitting or laying down, it’s like swinging in a swing, or galloping on a horse — periods where you feel slightly light and even elevated on the upswing, and then gravity does its work and you land and feel heavy on the downswing, all with the motion of the ocean. And if you’re walking, which is really hard (railings are key) — it’s disorienting, like being in a festival fun house.
Between the high winds and swells, coming back to Argentina was pretty shaky. People typically take meclizine during a rough passage to manage seasickness and waylay up in their rooms with room service, but I generally felt okay, aside from being a bit sleepy with the constant rocking. Video somewhat tells the story, but keep in mind — the recording device is moving with the ship, so it’s impossible to really show the entirety of what we’re experiencing!
At first, it was a little exciting to finally experience the Drake Passage, a literal rite of passage when traveling to Antarctica… but it definitely started to get old at the end, and I just wanted to be on flat land again.
How cold is it, and what did you pack?
The weather in Antarctica is, in a word… UNPREDICTABLE. We experienced snow, sun, wind, calm, and everywhere in between, but generally, temps didn’t stray too far from 33°F / 0°C in December. Still, snow and wind can really chill things down, so this is what we wore to protect against the elements when leaving the ship:
- Wool socks
- Thermal underlayers (both bottom and top)
- Warm athletic pants
- Waterproof outer pants
- Long sleeved fleece
- Insulated inner jacket and waterproof outer jacket (we got to keep our Aurora Expeditions 3-in-1 coats!)
- Rubber muck boots (borrowed from Aurora)
- Hat or headband, gloves, scarf or buff, here’s a tip — avoid the loose weave knits and go for something EXTRA WARM — a fleece or a tight knit!
I also brought those instant-heating hand and feet warmers, which really made all the difference in my muck boots and gloves. POLARIZED SUNGLASSES or ski goggles were also key due to the brightness of the landscape.
If it looks like we were cold in the photos, some days we really were. Other days, I wanted to strip off a few layers. (But ya’ll, a Minnesota winter is colder than an Antarctica summer, that’s for sure!)
As far as the temperature-controlled ship goes, clothing was casual. (My sleeveless puffy vest was a must-have — and my travel companion said it was the one thing she wished she had brought.)
Was it expensive?
There’s no easy way to say this, guys… (or is there?) but yes, an Antarctica expedition is generally expensive.
A trip to Antarctica is going to come at a higher cost than, for example, a cruise to the Bahamas, just due to the remoteness and logistical challenges of reaching the continent.
From there, the price is variable based on the operator, and factors like duration, type of accommodation and amenities on the vessel, level of comfort, and included activities… and whether you can apply any sales or promos.
When choosing to embark on a trip like this, it’s important to take all these considerations into account, as well as reputation, reviews, frequency of landings, and any other factors that matter to you, like an operator’s sustainability efforts. I recommend you engage a travel advisor (like me!) to find the perfect match for you and your budget (and take advantage of extra perks!).
When is the best time to go to Antarctica and what can you see in Antarctica?
The Antarctic tourist season is during the southern hemisphere summer, typically mid-November to early March. The best time to go, of course, is subjective and is based on what you want to see and where you want to go.
- The earlier you go, the fewer tourists and better pricing…
- There’s a sweet spot when it comes to the ice — go too early and places are inaccessible and still frozen… go too late, and everything is a melting, slushy mess…
- You’ll also want to consider wildlife when choosing when to go to Antarctica. Earlier in the season is breeding time for elephant seals, later in the season is hatching time for penguin chicks, for example…
- The temperatures are also best, right in the middle of the season
I was really happy about my end of December Christmas sailing. Spending Christmas at the “South Pole” was such a special experience — we made Christmas cookies, sang carols, and shared a special Christmas meal on the ship.
And over the course of the journey, we saw three types of penguins, four types of seals, and three types of whales. I felt so lucky. ❤️
What’s the best length of time in Antarctica? How was your itinerary? Did you ever get bored on the ship?
Pre-travel, I actually had a friend tell me that two weeks in Antarctica was too much, but with the time and expense it takes to get all the way down there, I would NOT want to cut it short!
Firstly, you recall that it takes about two days to cross the Drake Passage on each end. This is 4+ days at sea crossing. When you’re crossing, there are lectures and games on the ship where you learn about science and wildlife, or you can go to the gym, library, and sauna.
While in Antarctica, the crew aims for two outings a day when the ship is stationary, and the itinerary they start with is very flexible to allow for change and chasing the good weather. Our guides said they adjusted our itinerary basically every day, just based on the weather!
Outings include zodiac cruises to see icebergs, seals, and whale-watching, to any of a hundred landing sites to visit research bases and historical sites, penguin colonies, or to go hiking — not to mention, snorkeling, sea kayaking, and snowshoeing for those who signed up for it!
And on the 15-day expedition, we got to travel much farther south than most Antarctic expeditions because of the extended time we had to transit.
Between the naptime of the Drake Passage, the Zodiac outings, the activities on the ship, and all the socialization and the meals, I did not get bored for one second. There was always something to do. Plus, I loved spending time with all the international guests from all over the world, couples and other solo travelers, and friendly crew!
Is there anything you didn’t like? Would you travel with Aurora Expeditions again?
Surprise — there WAS one thing I didn’t like, and that was that the optional activities had sold out on my departure and there was no way to participate! Snorkeling, sea kayaking, and snowshoeing all sounded amazing, but each coveted spot had already been taken. And even though it would’ve been SUPER cool to do one of these activities… ultimately, I did not feel like I missed out. We were so busy!
So overall, what’s my Aurora Expeditions review? This trip really exceeded my expectations, and I would 1000% travel again with Aurora. I can’t say enough good things about the expedition team, the staff and crew, and the entire experience. Their passion and commitment truly shone, and I was comfortable and taken care of the whole way. Thanks Aurora!
And by the way… I’m cooking up some plans to travel to the Arctic and return to Antarctica. If you’d like to travel with me on a future trip, send me a message!
View my Instagram Highlights from Antarctica
Can you share how much the trip actually cost? The Aurora expeditions website is far from transparent and they make you call for a quote… I’d consider doing it but not if I have to jump through hoops to find out how much it costs!
Hi Ali! Hmm. I’m not sure where you’re looking (and maybe it depends on the country IP from where you’re visiting), but I can see that prices are definitely listed once you select a destination/itinerary and cabin?
I’m not able to talk about what I specifically paid due to the reasons outlined in this blog, but if there is a date and itinerary I can check for you, I can deliver that information to you directly by email. (When you book through me, you also have access to additional promotions not visible to the public on the Aurora website!)
Send me an email and I’ll be happy to take a look 💙