New Zealand Recap: Spending 3 Weeks on the South Island

This little global nomad spent a February mostly “at home” in the states with my family (which always begs some existential questions like, is it my home if I never grew up here and actually never lived here? Is it my home if I don’t have my own room or my own bed? Is it my home if I usually spend less than one month per year in the United States?! But I digress) — so I was itching to get back out there for my next chapter of nomad life…

…and cross off a few more continents! 

I started the 2024 edition of Julie’s world tour in New Zealand (ok, after Antarctica and Argentina), a country that was always on my list (but never particularly high on the list, due to the cost of living and my lower budget). But since I was fortunate enough to have accommodations handled during my time there, New Zealand could become a more immediate reality (thank you to my amazing host, Dan!). 

After a brief stint in Auckland (and a couple days of rest after my 16-hour flight from Dallas — ick), I settled in the central part of the South Island, otherwise known as “The Lakes District.” There, you’ll find lakes, obviously — but also rivers, towering mountains, and glaciers — a bonafide mecca for adventure lovers. (The South Island, topographically, is completely different to the North Island. Everybody told me the South Island was the place to be, so good on Dan for living there!) 

But first, for budget-conscious, under-employed nomads, New Zealand is not for the faint of heart. Even as an American spending USD vs. NZD, it was expensive. And even more so, after spending the entirety of 2023 across Mexico and South America — I’m well-adjusted to a whole new (lower) price point! 

(There was some relief to be had, though, to see the credit card transactions come to 40% off after the adjustment from NZD to USD. I can’t imagine being a New Zealander and paying those prices, though!) 

10 things to do on the South Island of New Zealand

1. Get outdoors! Near and far, go hiking and trekking.

I home-based in Wanaka, home to Mount Aspiring National Park, and close to well-traveled tracks Diamond Lake (4.4 miles), Breast Hill (9.5 miles), Mount Iron (2.9 miles), and the famous Roy’s Peak (10.1 miles). These popular trails offer spectacular views and are what Wanaka is known for! The weather was just starting to turn when I was there in March — so pack those sweaters and puffy jackets.

2. GLACIERS! ‘Nuff said.

Mount Cook National Park is a few hours’ drive from Wanaka. The Hooker Valley (7 miles) track was absolutely gorgeous and relatively easy — grab a drink at the historic Hermitage Hotel afterwards!

Aspiring and Mount Cook National Parks are also home to some extremely challenging and long range hikes, requiring overnights at huts, specialized equipment, and the guidance of guides. Get in touch with Aspiring Guides if something like that is up your alley!

3. Enjoy the wine country! 

While sauv blanc is the star of the show elsewhere in New Zealand, pinot noir is the flagship grape of Central Otago… and wineries abound!

I recommend visiting Ayrburn, a gorgeous outdoor wine garden/tasting room/restaurant in Arrowtown: their 2022 Ayrburn Pinot Noir was absolutely divine! I also ate dinner there, which was delicious. You can also join a tour with multiple stops and transportation.

Fun fact: New Zealand wine bottles don’t actually use corks; I did not find a single locally produced wine (in both restaurants and stores) that wasn’t a twist-off! (Pretty sustainable of you, NZ.)

4. Pump that adrenaline!

Queenstown is considered the adventure capital of New Zealand: go bungee jumping, at the place where it all started, at AJ Hackett’s Kawarau Bridge! Check out more exciting activities here.

I jumped twice, and (kinda?) enjoyed every second!! To see me live in action (and for some added suspense), check out the videos on YouTube of my first jump and second jump.

5. Get on (and IN!) the water: sail, swim, and sauna! 

Queenstown is situated on the shores of Lake Wakatipu, and Wanaka is nestled next to Lake Wanaka and Hawea. You can paddle board or sail on the lakes (which sometimes have waves like the ocean!), sunbathe or cold plunge, and book a slot at The Secret Sauna on Lake Hawea. Bliss!

6. Enjoy an afternoon of fishing (and eating your catch)! 

My day at Hook Wanaka was one of my favorites of the whole trip. It doesn’t get any fresher than this — I caught four salmon and they were fileted up right then and there. This was such fun!!

7. Stargaze. 

Stargazing in New Zealand is a breathtaking experience, thanks to the country’s relatively low light pollution. I was BLOWN AWAY by the stars! Aoraki Mackenzie Dark Sky Reserve is regarded as one of the best stargazing locations in the world, but you can catch night skies like these almost anywhere on the South Island.

8. See the area BY AIR. 

My one regret was not being able to get up in a helicopter for epic views of the national park, glaciers, and alpine valleys — I tried, but it was canceled due to visibility. Pro tip: Book your helicopter ride early into your trip, so that it can be rescheduled if the weather isn’t cooperating!

9. Get your geek on.

Did you know that the Lord of the Rings and Hobbit movie franchises were filmed over much of New Zealand? Relive your favorite movie scenes by visiting multiple film locations around Queenstown and Glenorchy.

(I visited Hobbiton on the North Island, located about 2 hours’ drive from Auckland. Loved it!!)

10. Shop, stroll, eat, and people watch! 

Both Queenstown and Wanaka are popular tourist destinations, and I spent a significant amount of time in each; but they offer different experiences and atmospheres. 

Queenstown is larger and more populous than Wanaka. As a result, Queenstown has more hustle and bustle, especially during peak tourist seasons, while Wanaka has a more relaxed and laid-back vibe. (This is especially noticeable in the nightlife!) 

Queenstown’s “downtown” is also bigger, but they are both adorable, strollable, and shoppable. (In Wanaka, check out Thieving Kea, an adorable gifts and artisan goods boutique!) Since there’s a little bit more action in QT, it has my vote for a longer-term stay.

As far as dining, in Queenstown, try: Botswana Butchery, The Boatshed Cafe, and Sherwood Queenstown. In Wanaka, don’t miss: Big Fig, Cork Wine Bar, and Federal Diner.

Honorable mention: Milford Sound

This is usually way higher up on people’s lists, but honestly, it was a long drive from Queenstown, and while the payoff was pretty, it wasn’t spectacular. (The cloudy, gloomy day we had could’ve also played a role.) Hopefully you have a bit more luck with nice weather than we did!

Thank you for glorious three weeks, New Zealand. Nomad life continues, and more affordable options await… visit on Instagram to see where I’m comin’ atcha at any particular time. 😉❤️ 

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